Aletta’s Photo Album

On the last night in Kathmandu we went to a local restaurant with Sirish and his wife Ruby where they introduced us to some more typical Nepalese delicacies.

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Ruby

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I took this last minute photo of Mervyn next to an oil painting of the Fishtail Mountain. The painting hangs in one of the lobbies in the Annapurna hotel.

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One last lassi by the hotel’s pool-side

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On our last morning there, the breakfast staff posed for photos with us. We were all sad to say good-bye.

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Tribhuvan (Kathmandu) International Airport

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Our tour operator put yellow scarves around our necks, a tradition that is supposed to protect the traveler.

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Qatar - Nepal Airlines

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At Doha airport we were taken by air-conditioned mini-bus to the five-star Ramada Hotel where we could rest and freshen up. Hotel staff invited us to a most delicious buffet lunch.

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Afterwards we were taken back to the airport where we caught our flight back to South Africa.

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Our Nepalese experience was an unforgettable one. It is our dream to return one day.

Thamel is the most popular tourist area of Kathmandu. It is a 15 minute walk from the Annapurna Hotel in Kathmandu where we stayed and has narrow streets full of mushrooming lodges and hotels for budget travellers. Restaurants, bars and other tourist oriented shops abound, all bustling with activities.

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One of the places where trekkers get permits

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Thamel acts as the pre-base camp for many mountaineers. There is a wide range of mountaineering gear shops, foreign money exchange booths, pubs, clubs and nightlife.

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Kilroy is one of the popular pub/restaurants in Thamel and is owned by an Irish man who settled here years ago.

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Enjoying an ice-cold lassi (made from buffalo yogurt and banana).

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A Tibetan refugee in his wool shop where he sells hand knitted garments made from yak wool.

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I recognized this man’s “McDonalds” shirt. He told us that he used to work for McD in the Phillipines and kept the shirt when he returned to Nepal. Now he wears it while working at this Thamel outdoor tearoom!

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The Funky Buddah Bar

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A ‘holy cow’ roams the streets of Thamel

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RumDoodle is a very popular rooftop restaurant where trekkers from all over the world meet, eat and compare notes. Mervyn had pork chops with mash. It could have been wild boar – we were not too sure.

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There are many interesting arcades such as this one, filled with little shops.

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Scarves and shawls from India are everywhere!

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A slummy side-street in Thamel

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Having filter coffee at the Bakery Coffee Shop with Sirish

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There are many ‘language centres’ all over Kathmandu that offer English lessons!

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Having a lassi for the road

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For the tourist who does not enjoy getting his fingers and feet dirty, Thamel is the place to be. There are lovely shopping arcades, shops, markets and restaurants that could keep one occupied for at least a week.

Asan is one of the oldest and busiest squares in Kathmandu.

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All kinds of household goods are available in this bustling marketplace where the local people shop.

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Yak tales are sold here – to use as brooms for sweeping floors.

 

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Spices

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Socks for you Sir?

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Brass items for sale

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Fruit sold from bicycles

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The three storey high pagoda styled Annapurna (goddess of food grains) temple is situated here.

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 Buying roasted peanuts from a vendor on the street.

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The streets of Asan market

 

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Our tour operator in Kathmandu, , Mohan, arranged for a group of tourists to attend a typical Nepali cultural dinner show.

As we entered the ancient house turned into a restaurant, before we were requested to take off our shoes, we each received a red dot (“tika”) on our foreheads. Thereafter we were showed to the long, low table where we had to sit down on pillows on the floor.

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Here I am with Mohan’s wife – sampling “Thon” – a milky, white liquor made from fermented rice – served in brass vessels. I could only manage a teaspoon full of this highly acidic liquid!

 

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Typical Nepali food included “kwati”, soup made with beans, “momo”, dumplings filled with buffalo meat, and sliced, roasted wild boar with a variety of vegetables.

Dahi, the ever popular Nepali yogurt, was enjoyed for desert.

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The musicians and dancers entered the restaurant and performed right their within eye level of the guests.

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Musicians and dancers

 

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Two dancers posed for a photo – tired after a long evening of performing.

We planned to spend two days at Nagarkot, a village located 32 km east of Kathmandu at an elevation of 2,195 meters above sea level.

 

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We travelled there by car and our driver took a scenic route via Bhaktapur, passing many tiny villages along meandering mountain roads.

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We stayed at the Hotel Country Villa which is situated on a hilltop, with breathtaking mountain scenery and the most impressive views of the sunrise and sunset.  At this hotel, every room has its own balcony facing the mountains.

 

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The view from our hotel balcony

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After settling into our room, we took a walk to explore the area.

We discovered hotels, guest houses and tea rooms with the strangest names!

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This lady was on her way to fetch water, but stopped for a chat.

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We met a Nagarkot family who were very eager to talk to us in their broken English.

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A typical ”outdoor restaurant”!

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The next morning we woke early, keenly awaiting the rising of the sun over the Himalayas.

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We were not disappointed.

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After breakfast we took a walk to a nearby Tamang Village in the valley.  Early in the morning the snowy mountains were still visible.

 

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A housewife stopped us and invited us for tea which we had to refuse since we have just had breakfast.

 

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We eventually caught sight of the Tamang Village in the valley below.

 

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One of the villagers greeted us and showed us around.

 

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A little Tamang girl saying “Namaste!”

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One of the hospitable tea-house owners offered us sweet spicy tea which was very welcome on this hot, dry day.

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A typical Tamang house with rooms underneath for the animals

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On our way back to the hotel, we noticed this lady sleeping in the long grass next to a buffalo. She woke up on hearing our voices.

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The restaurant at the hotel includes an open terrace area which with breathtaking views of the valleys and high mountains.

They made the best banana dumplings ever and we had it as often as we could during our two day stay!

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We departed from this beaufiful village too -  with sad hearts – as we returned to the polluted and overpopulated Kathmandu.

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We took the 35 minute flight from Kathmandu to Pokhara where we planned to stay for two days.  A driver from the Fish Tail Lodge met us at the airport.

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The Fishtail Lodge is located on the edge of the Fewa Tal Lake and cannot be accessed by road. So upon arrival guests are transported to the hotel by shuttle floats.

 

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One can also catch one of many little rowing boats that operate on the lake. I caught this one once.

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Set in lush gardens, the hotel consists of unique round cottages offering spectacular views of the Annapurna range and the Fish Tail Mountain.

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Friendly Tibetan women sell handmade jewelry and antiques at the entrance to the hotel.

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We hired a local guide with a car for the day.

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Firstly, he took us to The International Mountain Museum. This museum is devoted to the mountains of Nepal and the mountaineers who climbed them.

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Outside the museum, with a replica of a yak and a simulated mountain peak in the background.

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Inside the mueum one can see original gear from many of the first Himalayan ascents, as well as displays on the history, culture, geology and flora and fauna of the Himalaya.

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Mervyn with the Sherpa Tribe

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Another Nepalese Tribe

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A painting of yaks in the snow

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A stamp collection featuring the Himalayas

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Mervyn and our guide resting on the stoep of a traditional Nepalese house at the museum.

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After visiting the museum, our guide decided to show us the Devi’s Falls. It is believed that this deadly waterfall took the life of a tourist named David, who fell down into the canal and was never found, and hence the name David waterfall, named in his memory by the people of Pokhara.

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We made a stop at the Tibetan Refugee Village where Tibetans have their own homes, shops, a school and a hospital. Tibetan women work at various trades during the day.

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Here we observed women weaving carpets and spinning wool from yaks.

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Thereafter we took a slow drive through the old Pokhara Village back to the hotel.

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A typical old Pokhara house

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A Tibetan Restaurant

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Fortunately we did not need to see a doctor!

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Back at the hotel we had time left to enjoy the beautiful, peaceful surroundings.

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Next to Lake Fewa Tal

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Enjoying the birdsong in the lush garden

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It was with a sad heart that we departed from Pokhara and its friendly people, back to Kathmandu.

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At the Pokhara domestic airport Mervyn discovered yet another stamp collection which he discussed at length with one of the trekker tourists.

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This lady from Jomson invited me to visit her, even though it means doing a one day trek down the hills from Jomson airport!

Bhaktapur is an ancient Newar town in the Eastern corner of the Kathmandu Valley.

It is the third largest city in the valley and was once the capital of Nepal during the great Malla Kingdom until the second half of the 15th century.

Bhaktapur is known for its fabulous culture and indigeneous lifestyle. It is listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO for its abundantly rich collection of temples as well as wooden, metal and stone artworks.

The Durbar Square is surrounded by spectacular architecture and vividly showcases the skills of the Newari artists and craftsmen over several centuries.

 

Sirish, our tour guide, suggested having lunch at one of the many rooftop restaurants.

Lunch consisted of bread with yak cheese, buffalo yogurt and sweet spicy milk tea. Yum!

 

 

 

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Local children followed us around the streets of the city. They

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They led us to this temple and insisted to be photographed with us.

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Sitting next to a “snake god”

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A Cyber Cafe!

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A visit to Bhaktapur is not complete without trying a bowl of Juju Dhau (King Curd), a thick yogurt, made from buffalo milk. Sirish took some home for his wife and the shop keeper gave Mervyn and myself each a little clay bowl full to taste.

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On this hospitable note we left this ancient, mysterious city of Bhaktapur. 

On returning from the mountain flight, our tour guide, Sirish, met us at the airport for a visit to the cities of Patan and Bhaktapur.

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Patan, also known as Lalitpur, is one of the sub-metropolitan cities of Nepal located in the South-Western part of the Kathmandu valley.

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Overlooking Patan Durbar Square

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Most of the Nepalese art of any form is devoted to gods and there are an abundance of temples and vihara in the city.

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Mervyn at one of the carved temple entrances

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Patan is best known for its rich cultural heritage, particularly its tradition of arts and crafts.

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Tibetan women weaving carpets by hand, using yak wool

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Patan Durbar Square is a World Heritage site. All its monuments have been declared as protected.

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Here Mervyn is standing next to beautifully hand carved wooden pillars.

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Hiranya Varna Mahaa Vihar: A Buddhist temple known locally as the Golden Temple

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Patan market in the background

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An elderly inhabitant of Patan

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A local dog catching a siesta

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Lady from Tibet

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Buying stamps for Kobus and bribing the post master to stamp them to make them look authentically used!

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A wedding car decorated with fresh flowers. Weddings take place on every day of the week according to the day decided on for the couple by the gods.

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A temple notice

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We left Patan by early afternoon to visit the next city, Bhaktapur, which will be featured in my next blog.

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The quickest way to get a close look at Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, in the Eastern Himalayan Mountain Range, is by taking a mountain flight.

There are two airlines in Kathmandu that offer one-hour flights over the Himalayas: Buddha and Yeti.

 

Mervyn purchasing our tickets for the adventure

In the domestic departures lounge Mervyn found some interesting books on mountaineering.

The mountain flights generally take off early in the morning in order for visitors to get the best view. 

Yeti Airlines’ SAAB-340 flies at an optimum altitude of between 20,000 to 25,000 feet with the mountains at eye level for maximum viewing pleasure. Each passenger is guaranteed a window seat.   

The aircraft is powered by two wing-mounted turbo propeller engines, each driving four blades. It is designed to carry 33 passengers. 

 

The sleeping city of Kathmandu was clearly visible as the aircraft lifted from the ground. 

 

Very soon the mountain range came into view and at last Mervyn could see his beloved Mount Everest for himself.